Looking for a tractor unit

[Julian]

Pick up a commercial motor on a thursday, it's crammed with tractor units, I would have thought you'd find an ERF somewhere in there. I get fed up with reading for sale pages but last time I picked a CM up for a read, tractor units were dirt cheap.

BB

I've provisionally purchased an old E12. It needs a fresh test and failed yesterday on a brake chamber which is being replaced - so when that's done I'll pick it up next week.

Rolls engine, (oh dear what have I let myself in for!) but I like the rest of it because it's simple and I can work on it without needing computers. Metal springs, no horrid airbags and no speed limiter

Julian.

[v64paul]

It will be fine, Julian. The rolls hardly ever needs touching apart from porous liners, failing liner seals and head gaskets....
Mind you, the latest MAN engine is suffering from valve seat regression usually on no5 or 6 cylinder. Record time for a replacement head is 25 - 30 hours, set by our colleagues at the MAN dealership. Common rail overhead cam engine. Meanwhile, we over in the DAF department have yet to remove a head on the MX engine. There i've gone and said it now....

[Julian]

It will be fine, Julian. The rolls hardly ever needs touching apart from porous liners, failing liner seals and head gaskets....
:

So no real problems then

I got it home today, drove it from Leeds with no bother. Just two issues, the ABS light illuminated a couple of times - it's Girling Skidchek I think, is there any info on how these things works, or any ERF workshop manuals available for these old machines? On cars it's almost always the wheel speed sensors that play up. I'm not particularly bothered because it has 12 months MOT so I've plenty of time to fix it.

The rev counter is bust. I remember that on my Ford Cargo 7.5 ton the rev counter feed comes from the ''W'' terminal on the alternator - does the ERF have the same system?

Cheers Julian.

[v64paul]

Always go for the cheapest option first Julian. The pole wheel sensors were not usually that troublesome, look for contamination of the exciter rings. If the sensor sees a gap at speed the light will come on, the rear wheel bearings were usually the cause. They are a cartridge bearing containing the hub oil seal and non-adjustable. The seal would leak and the accumilation of gear oil and dirt would smother the exicter ring.
As for the rev counter, I'd have to check the manual, but yes that is as good a place to start as any. Check the alt drive belts are correctly adjusted as any slippage of the pulley will cause the output to drop. Scratch that, i've just read that it aint working at all, the dash is again a stand alone non-serviceable unit and has been known to give up.
If you pass on the year it was built and the chassis number i'll have a look at the relevant wiring diagram. We are probably looking at a site visit at some point, tea, no sugar please

[Julian]

Always go for the cheapest option first Julian. The pole wheel sensors were not usually that troublesome, look for contamination of the exciter rings. If the sensor sees a gap at speed the light will come on, the rear wheel bearings were usually the cause. They are a cartridge bearing containing the hub oil seal and non-adjustable. The seal would leak and the accumilation of gear oil and dirt would smother the exicter ring.
As for the rev counter, I'd have to check the manual, but yes that is as good a place to start as any. Check the alt drive belts are correctly adjusted as any slippage of the pulley will cause the output to drop. Scratch that, i've just read that it aint working at all, the dash is again a stand alone non-serviceable unit and has been known to give up.
If you pass on the year it was built and the chassis number i'll have a look at the relevant wiring diagram. We are probably looking at a site visit at some point, tea, no sugar please

Thanks Paul. It's chassis # 54789 1987 EC12

I've done some work this morning, it has a vertical exhaust behind the cab, I noticed it was wobbling a bit and found the welds on the bracket to the chassis rail hadn't penetrated. My trusty stick welder and 3.2mm rods with a good blasting of amps has that sorted

Two oil filters on order from Fleet Factors for the engine and some new anti-freeze. I'm guessing that my semi-synthetic universal tractor oil is OK for the engine and ''blue'' antifreeze is OK?

Now to work out why it pulls to the right when braking - with cars it's always the front brakes that cause a pull, so I'm guessing that HGV is the same? Sounds like the left front brake needs investigation. I'll need to wait for the misses to come home from work because I can't push the pedal and watch that one at the same time

You are welcome to come on a site visit - tea will be never ending, I've one of those Burco 5 gallon water boilers And you can see my other toys!

[v64paul]

Shift work, and upcoming visit to DAF at thame for brainwashing aside i will make the effort sooner rather than later. may even persuade my brother Graham to come along. Yes to both the antifreeze and the oil. Odd to have a braking problem as it's just passed it's test. Can you see a brake adjuster near the brake camshaft ( i hope so ) it will have a 10mm spanner size hex head. If not then it's maybe biscuits to go with the tea as it's got lucas stopmaster brakes. Probably the most innapropriate brand name ever. Will p.m you my mobile number.

[Julian]

Shift work, and upcoming visit to DAF at thame for brainwashing aside i will make the effort sooner rather than later. may even persuade my brother Graham to come along. Yes to both the antifreeze and the oil. Odd to have a braking problem as it's just passed it's test. Can you see a brake adjuster near the brake camshaft ( i hope so ) it will have a 10mm spanner size hex head. If not then it's maybe biscuits to go with the tea as it's got lucas stopmaster brakes. Probably the most innapropriate brand name ever. Will p.m you my mobile number.

Cheers Paul, will try and contact you soon. It is funny that it pulls when braking. It actually failed the MOT first time on a rear brake chamber, and the adjuster thing that sits on that spined shaft (both are brand new now)

Yes it does have an adjuster, looks like you depress a sleeve then turn the adjuster? I guess you jack the wheel, tighten the adjuster untill the wheel binds then back it off a bit?

Oil, filter and antifreeze all done OK

Julian.