Hydraclamp seal

[Matchless?58]

Well today I had a good day . I finally found time to fix my leaking hydraclamp seal . The sun was shining and I had my own orchestra with the birds singing beautifully in the background . The job went well the main and only problem being I couldn't undo the large bolt in the centre . In the end I had to resort to stilsons and a 6ft scaffold tube . It didn't resist that for long ! The old seal was so perished and worn i just hammered an old screwdriver into the rubber and yanked it out .
I lubricated the new seal with some clean hydraulic oil and it went back fairly easy in the vice . Vice jaws protected with scrap timber .
Reconnected hydraulic pipes had a quick test run and no more leak .
This was a job I was not looking forward to and kept putting off but in the end it was actually enjoyable . I had anticipated that the centre bolt would just keep turning and I would have to cut it off and get a new one .

Now the next job will be a problem , small crack at the bottom of the hydra rail which someone has made a half hearted attempt at repairing loads of blobs of weld all over it but it still slowly drips . Any opinions on how to repair this ? I will probably have to drain all the oil off . Grind off the old weld and get it rewelded . I will have to ask someone to help as my little welder would not be up to this and neither would my skills . Any other idea welcome . Cheers Chris

[MrF]

I think you have a 3d from memory so some of this wont apply directly perhaps but you would have to drain the oil out, also on the 3c bits of the hydra rail retain oil even after the hydraulic drain plug has been out for a few hours.
When I was cutting the broken 3c2 chassis up, I had a few small fires when the residue lit off while plasma cutting and quantities of hydraulic oil tipped out when it was upended in different ways while moving it about to finish off. Maybe you could deal with that filling it with something somehow or if you have all the tank plates off then at least its not a sealed container if it does catch.

As for the repair of the hydrachassis itself, depending on which part you are referring to, the section wall thickness may surprise you, its maybe only 2-3mm or so in places, the strength is from the structure itself. The 3c2 might be different sections though because it still retained the main leyland tractor skid itself and your 3d is a different heavier beast in some ways.
It will need veeing out and doing in stages to do it properly, this was the method we used to use on hgv chassis also, vee out, do a root weld with heavy arc if needed then go over it with other processes. You can overplate a reinforcement if its a area thats prone to stress cracking again to spread the load out a bit as by now our chassis's are starting to get fatigued. My 3c3 has a spreader plate over a crack in the front framework, but it was done really well by someone in the past so I'm happy with it. Pity the same person didn't do the rest of the welding repairs on it, because mr pidgeon and his magic glue gun seems to have done a lot of them

[Matchless?58]

Thanks for your reply Mr. F. I had a feeling that the crack in the hydra chassis rail would be a major problem . My biggest fear with this is that any residual oil will catch fire and burn the whole lot out . On closer inspection the drip seems to be coming from an angle bracket that supports something just above the nearside wheel . It maybe that the original weld of the angle bracket has opened up a bit probably due to overloading of the front loader . I know that the machine was used for mainly loader work in a builders yard . I did think that by running the front wheels up a ramp I might be able to drain most if not all of the oil out but with your information about the pockets of oil still left in the rail that is a bit of a concern . My other idea was maybe another angle bracket shaped patch could be welded over the top of it after all the other rubbish was ground off . Although any oil inside would get hot it wouldn't be exposed to any sparks which might lessen the risk a bit . As for identifying the machine lack of any I'd plate hasn't helped here . I'm beginning to suspect that it's a 3c11 with a 3d backhoe fitted to it . All pictures ive seen of the 3c11 match my machine and now any parts I buy are for the 3c11 and they all fit . Not conclusive I know but that's my best guess . I'm gradually working my way through the machine fixing various problems . The cab is a bit of a wreak and is off ATM while I bodge it up to the best of my ability . I can only spend an hour here and there on that so it's a slow process . It will never be an oil painting but hopefully useable and keep the water out . The machine lives under a tarp that is a pain when you want to use it just for an hour or so as it takes longer to cover and uncover than it does to do the job . Hence the poor old mini digger gets dragged out more often . Thanks for your advice and good luck with your renovation of your machine . Let me know what you think about the patch idea . Cheers Chris

[MrF]

Where is the crack actually located? its hard to comment further without knowing this. If you mention where it is, someone might have some insight on what the best approach for that area is. I have it pictured as now being where the front half of the chassis meets the uprights and there are some triangle gusset plates. If so, that's where my 3c3 is patched also

As for patching it externally, well, if you weld the external patch on properly then that will work. Really if you just plug the leak and stop it coming back with normal use then that's a win. I didn't repair mine to know how they did it, but the weld has great penetration so they must have got it hot. If its there, that rail is baffled internally too, if you look there is a weld seam halfway up where the baffle is.

Also on the 3c2, if it is a 3c2 its possible there's another leyland factory id plate located right on the original tractor frame that the engine itself bolts to, in addition to the normal jcb cab plate. If someone's removed the cab one for whatever reason, odds are the engine frame one could be still present and it will carry the tractor serial numbers if nothing else.

[Matchless?58]

Ah ... Now that is interesting information about the I'd plate location . I will have a good look tomorrow . Let you know how it goes .
Yes I think that is the location of the leak I think I will just have to bite the bullet and get under it clean all the crap off and get some photos .
I will start a new thread with pictures if I can remember how to upload them .
Time a bit tight ATM so probably get pics at the weekend .
Thanks for your advice so far especially re the welding as I'm a complete rookie in this department . Cheers Chris

[essexpete]

Our old Powertrain 111 had a leak at the front end of the main chassis where the front axle was supported. I think they were prone to crack there. I welded it (rightly or wrongly) without drawing the oil. I built up a chunk of weld (it was kind of in a corner angle) over a period of time. It leaked again to start with then, following a second attempt, I got it sealed. It was not pretty on close inspection but it never leaked from there again.

[Matchless?58]

That's good news Pete . There is a lump of weld on it already and yes it is in the location you describe . When I start the new thread have a look at the pictures . The existing attempt at repair is a bit pathetic tbh and I'm no welder ! I think it will need grinding back and rewelded . I think I would be a bit too nervous to have it welded full of oil . I'm going to drain the oil into a clean container and put the bugger back in through a fine filter . I might as well clean out the suction strainer while it's drained . If I get the front end of the machine raised hopefully all the oil will run back away from the welded area . That might be the plan but we will see . Cheers Chris

[gecko.cx]

Simple suggestion if welding a tank makes you nervous.
Dry Ice can often be had in pellets rather than a solid block.
A hand full or two in a tank will push out all the air and prevent any chance of a flash / explosion inside.
Also, it leaves no residue, so there is no clean-up.

[MrF]

Ive welded fuel tanks after filling them with exhaust gasses, or argon in one instance to achieve same, but dry ice seems cheaper than argon refils and probably more consistent than exhaust fumes.
The main culprit for the oil left sloshing about for me was in the very rear of the hydraframe, well away from this area, so draining it down to get the oil out that segment, and lifting the front end might be a good plan also. And as you say, there's the giving the suction strainer that's inside the (left) leg a wash out too that you can tick off while your at it.

[Matchless?58]

That job will have to be on hold for a while as the machine burst a main hose to the backhoe today . Bloody thing covered me in oil too good job the oil wasn't boiling hot . Note to self must get on with the cab refurb and get it fitted back on ! Anyway it looks expensive but I need the machine atm ( self build ) so it has to work for its living . I still plan to get the cracked hydra chassis sorted but don't know when I will get time now . Onwards and upwards while the weather is good . Cheers Chris