3cx carriage sideshift seals

[Pat_r_irl]

Hi all
Our 1987 3CX-4 decided to spring a leak out of the hydraulic locks for the side shift (I'm not sure if this is the right term!). So I ordered the 55mm flogging spanner to remove the hydraulic clamp. however I made the mistake thinking that a few taps of the flogging spanner would loosen it, it seems the whole lot is turning, is there any way of getting these off? The Slide shift hasn't been used in years, I've never needed it -Famous last words. So I was also thinking about blanking off the slide shift so removing the need to do the seals. I'll add a picture so that you know what I'm talking about in case I have described it incorrectly.





Thanks all

[agrimax]

Not so advisable to bypass the top hydraclamps as there is more pulling pressure or leverage on them than the lower ones,but as a temporary measure it's only a matter of removing and joining the pipes to the leaky one.In a case like yours where the bolt is turning too,you may need to get the welder out to build up the side of the head of the bolt to stop it turning but would likely need the boom slid across to the other side to gain access to it at the rear.
Around £30 (eg Vicary Plant,England) will get you a new bolt,nut and tab washer and sometimes it's just not worth the hassle trying to loosen these nuts.Grinder or gas axe and cut it off.

[Pat_r_irl]

Thanks very much. I was hoping not to have to get the welder out or grind it off but I've a feeling their may be no other option when everything is turning.

[essexpete]

Do as Agrimax has said, PITA trying to free off. The seals should not be that expensive, just need fitting with care. We used to snap the bolts on our old 3C 111 banging over tramlines loading straw.

[gecko.cx]

As above - you want the hydraulic pressure to keep the carriage in place (you remove the pressure when you want to move the carriage).
For ref. the clamp is called a hydroclamp.
The bolt is a poor design with a relatively small bearing area to prevent turning. With mine, I hammered some 20x3mm steel strip between the bolt head and square nut to stop it turning. This is hard to get to as it's on the inside of the chassis.

Once out, I built up the flat with weld to provide decent engagement
https://hcparts.eu/hydraclamps/172-jcb- ... mpimg.html

[Pat_r_irl]

Hi all. Just an update
eventually I got the seals replaced. I ended up having to do it twice , as the first set blew. see image, I recon the bolt was longer than the original. but was working her yesterday and job's a good one. No on to the front bucket seals new post coming

[gecko.cx]

Keep the gap small

[Pat_r_irl]

I was thinking that gecko.cx the bolt seems to be slightly longer. I've it fixed now, but I might re-adjust it. I used the grinder to get it off.

If anyone else is wondering about the process see pics below