The Classic Machinery Network

The skip is pretty straight, the tyres are shot, and the Marles steering box has been replaced by a Series Land Rover steering box, which is completely shot. The steering shaft screws itself out of the column by about and inch when you turn the wheel and the steering is shockingly, comically bad. So that will need sorting.
The bottom line is it's actually pretty decent and between the two I should be able to make one very nice little dumper.

Sounds like a lot of fun to fix or rep[;ace the steerin g box. Should be repair kits or good 2nd hand Land Rover boxes a bout for you.

Fil wrote:Thanks for the replies folks!
I've got a couple of pullers but the biggest isn't big enough... Maybe it's time to get a bigger set.
I've not tried heat yet, but that's next if the Plusgas hasn't had any effect.
The adjusters are definitely backed off

Does anyone know if you can get new drums for these?

Hi Fil, It looks like I might have a local (Staffordshire) twin for your Wingyet 2S dumper as the brakes and drums were the same. The drum on the side with the oil leak came off easy and the dry side needed a 15T hydraulic 3 leg puller and a hammer to unstick it. Similarly the Girling brake expander on the dry side was seized solid but I've managed to free that up and I'm about to get my brakes shoes re-lined - Oil contamination on one side and completed un-bonded and shattered into pieces on the other. The rivetted shoe option sounds appealing if I knew where to buy the linings and rivets from.
May I ask how you cured the drive shaft oil leak and if you know the part numbers of the bearings and seals and who can supply them. I would like to have the bits available before I pull the hub off so I can rebuild it with minimum delay.
Regards and thanks for the posts that were a great help identifying my dumper and its faults. Roy

To find out abouyt the seal you are best to remove it, clean it and take it to a bearing shop. On my Liner ROughrider the seal was found behind a flat plate that also held the backing plate. These are usually standard 10" diameter brakes only change is the width may vary but generally 2" wide is very common. If your shoes do not have any holes for rivets then bonding is the best option. Tractor part suppliers carry linings and rivets but you are best to take your shoes with you to ensure fitment. There is nothing wrong with bonded shoes its the oil leak that caused the drama. When buying new bearing seals double check the surface on the axle for any ridges. If you have some then buy a pair of speedi-sleeves to fix that problem. You will need to accurately measure the OD of the shaft where the seal runs.

RWYZero6Two4 wrote:

Fil wrote:
Hi Fil, It looks like I might have a local (Staffordshire) twin for your Wingyet 2S dumper as the brakes and drums were the same. The drum on the side with the oil leak came off easy and the dry side needed a 15T hydraulic 3 leg puller and a hammer to unstick it. Similarly the Girling brake expander on the dry side was seized solid but I've managed to free that up and I'm about to get my brakes shoes re-lined - Oil contamination on one side and completed un-bonded and shattered into pieces on the other. The rivetted shoe option sounds appealing if I knew where to buy the linings and rivets from.
May I ask how you cured the drive shaft oil leak and if you know the part numbers of the bearings and seals and who can supply them. I would like to have the bits available before I pull the hub off so I can rebuild it with minimum delay.
Regards and thanks for the posts that were a great help identifying my dumper and its faults. Roy

Hello Roy, good to know I'm not alone with my little Winget project!
I'm afraid you're already one step ahead of me. I haven't been able to shift the hubs and as per my last couple of posts I now have a second Winget 2S, which has working brakes and the axle doesn't seem to be leaking too much (or there's no oil left to leak out! )
The plan is to just use the one I bought most recently and eventually I'll build one dumper using the best bits of the two I have. As and when I get round to restoring the various components I'll share my progress

I had a real drama removing my brake drums too. I tried everything that I had at my disposal including a very large slide hammer. Eventually I had to borrow a type of hydraulic puller which worked by compressing grease in a cylinder which increases the torque. This worked a treat. I found they are for sale online and also for hire at tool hire shops. hope this helps with some options.

While watching an episode of Finnegan's Garage on YouTube the other day I watched Mike Finnegan (of Roadkill) use bread rolls (!) to remove a pilot bearing from a crankshaft; you start pushing the bread through the centre of the bearing and as the cavity fills start ramming the bread with a suitably sized drift to use the hydraulic pressure building up behind the bearing to push it out.

He used bread over grease because the clean up afterwards just needs an airline over solvents!

Mad, but it works!

Been doing a bit of work on dumper number 2 over the last few weeks. And I'm quite pleased that I now have both brakes working rather well
The biggest problem I had was that one of the shoes on either side had lost their friction material, so the brakes were never going to work properly like that!
Luckily the drums and hubs came off nice and easily, and I stripped, cleaned and greased the brake expanders and adjusts to make sure everything was working smoothly before putting some shoes back in that had their friction material still attached.
The hardware on one side of the axle looked almost brand new.


No friction material!


Not sure why the pictures are upsidedown, but you get the idea!

That last picture is quite amazing, was there any rivets in the actual shoe?

Jeremy

Yeah, all the rivets were in place, just no friction material! It had all disappeared apart from a couple of chunks sitting in the bottom of the drum...