The Classic Machinery Network

My mate also told me he also fixed a siezed alternator on a digger by turning the it opposite way any body done this ??? Cheers :) I wouldn't trust any bearing that had seized once. If they've seized, the grease has probably been washed out and there will be rust inside, so it'll never be good agai...

Same as BSP (apart from the obvious differences). The sealing relies on the mating of the conical surfaces. If it's weeping, either the faces aren't mating correctly or the contact pressure is light. If you are confident the thread isn't binding or similar, I'd loosen the nut slightly and with a too...

essexpete wrote:I used some liquid 2 pack resin in some pitting on my 814S bucket ram. It seems to have held.

It's impressive how well that stuff works.
The low spots weren't too bad, but the high spots were a bit sharp. I needed to "soften" the edges.

Does anyone know if the shaft is heat treated? Mine is a later model, but I've just had mine straightened. The workshop the trued it up was pretty brutal and left a few witness scars on the rod surface. I was able to take out the worst by tapping with a hammer, so I'm quite confident the rod is not...

BTW, what's the button for on the end of the forward/ reverse stalk, thanks. Button on the shuttle stork (LHS) should be the horn. My assumption why it's there is so you can select reverse and beep the truck driver to tell him he's full without reaching for separate controls. Have you discovered th...

3K hours - I think you've had a win!

Have you downloaded the manual from the download section of this site?

(bottom of Page 2 might be right for you)
app.php/dl_ext/?cat=5&sort_by=0&order=ASC&start=2

The spade is only for the back light. The gauge works with a fluid in the copper tube - no power needed. BTW - if you decide to run one of the 'cooling system' cleaners, the flaky rust WILL dislodge and block the radiator core unless you fit a filter-sock under the top hose. Running a glycol antifre...

As above - you want the hydraulic pressure to keep the carriage in place (you remove the pressure when you want to move the carriage). For ref. the clamp is called a hydroclamp. The bolt is a poor design with a relatively small bearing area to prevent turning. With mine, I hammered some 20x3mm steel...

Not quite what I had in mind. The burned cable suggests the motor is seized and probably isn't a viable repair. Mounting a modern strobe under the existing lens will keep "the look", but save a lot of work and give a better result. A xenon strobe will put out more light than the original e...

Billy26F5 wrote:Looks a bit like a resistor between the live feed and the motor, but difficult to tell.

Probably an RFI suppressor to tame the electrical noise from the motor.

If you want to maintain 'the look', the easiest thing to do would be to gut the lamp you have and mount a modern LED or strobe inside