B100 Drott Restoration Project

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mechman
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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #11 by mechman » Sun Nov 26, 2017 1:56 pm

jimmymc wrote:Yes Jeremy that is the main thing, and the big shed is also a bonus, also have fleet of road railers out in the yard to do the heavy lifting , just need to get the a/f kit looked out.

Can't wait to get it going though, not driven a manual for years, first dozer I ever drove was a manual komatsu d60p . If I could find one of those! :D

Jimmymc.
I worked on one of those years ago, if my memory serves me the clutches for the tracks are compressed with Whitworth bolts, not sure if UNC will fit but you might need a couple of Whitworth spanners as well. Looking forward to the progress on this vehicle.
Norm.


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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #12 by jimmymc » Sun Nov 26, 2017 2:12 pm

Jesus whitworths way before my time! Haha!
I'll dig some out!

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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #13 by FOWLER MAN » Sun Nov 26, 2017 10:58 pm

jimmymc wrote:Jesus whitworths way before my time! Haha!
I'll dig some out!


Hello,
I have only now noticed this thread, it looks as though you have a good project to get your teeth into there.
I repaired and overhauled lots of these things for a number of years before running some myself and can tell you that you don't need any Whitworth spanners.
The compression bolts for the slew clutches are 7/16 UNC. They are 2.1/4 inches long and need the thread turned down at the end to form a spigot.
I think from memory the spigot was about 5/16 inch long and 3/16 in. diameter. Hopefully you wont need them, but I will be happy to answer any questions you may have as you go along.
The only bolts on the Drotts which don't have UNF or UNC threads are the specials which secure the front cross beam to the track frames these have fine NS threads but they still have AF heads.
This may sound strange but I have in the past had good success with freeing rusty , (seized), bores as you describe by letting them stand with vinegar in them for a few days before putting diesel in them, then removing the starter and baring the flywheel round. You will need to lift the loader arms out of your way to get at it .
I can't agree that they are difficult to bleed or start, but good starting is very dependant on the heater plugs being in good order like all indirect injection engines

Good luck.
Fred

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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #14 by modelman093 » Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:11 am

Never used vinegar but have had good results with a leading brand of Cola .


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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #15 by jimmymc » Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:20 am

Thanks Fred,

Well the plan of attack is to remove the loaders arms (rams need removed for rechroming anyway). Remove as much water from the engine as possible, I didn't know about the vinegar trick but I'm all for that! So, fill the cylinders with vinegar, then fill them with diesel? Then remove all that and try turning it over by hand?
Another thing? Does the btd 6 head gasket fit this engine? Was thinking of just whipping the head off?
To get the vinegar into the bores I'm just pouring it down the inlet and exhaust? Will the combustion chamber be easy enough to get the water out of with the head on do you think?
I don't foresee any problem in bleeding it either, its all there to enable you to get the fuel to the engine, just using what you have properly usually does the trick for bleeding anything up.
These are 24v positive, earth as well aren't they?

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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #16 by FOWLER MAN » Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:38 am

Hi,
From memory, (it's a long time ago), the BTD6 gaskets are different. The BTD6 had the BD264 engine and the B100 the more powerful BD281.
The electrics were 12 volt with two 6 volt batteries, hence the two battery cradles.
You may be able to get the diesel etc.in and out of the bores by removing the injector housings /combustion chambers, or just blow it out.
These housings can be difficult to remove, we used to make a puller using the delivery valve hole if they were tight. You can screw in a UNF bolt, (I think it was 1/2 inch UNF), to the delivery valve hole to pull them and attach a makeshift puller to it. By the time you do that and have the problem of finding and fitting new seals it's probably easier to take the head off.
When the head is off at least you have a chance to check the bores and piston side movement. You may well find you need to remove the pistons and hone the liners if they are badly corroded, or even replace them if you want it right.
Fred
Last edited by FOWLER MAN on Mon Nov 27, 2017 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #17 by Jeremy Rowland » Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:38 am

FOWLER MAN wrote:
jimmymc wrote:Jesus whitworths way before my time! Haha!
I'll dig some out!


Hello,
I have only now noticed this thread, it looks as though you have a good project to get your teeth into there.
I repaired and overhauled lots of these things for a number of years before running some myself and can tell you that you don't need any Whitworth spanners.
The compression bolts for the slew clutches are 7/16 UNC. They are 2.1/4 inches long and need the thread turned down at the end to form a spigot.
I think from memory the spigot was about 5/16 inch long and 3/16 in. diameter. Hopefully you wont need them, but I will be happy to answer any questions you may have as you go along.
The only bolts on the Drotts which don't have UNF or UNC threads are the specials which secure the front cross beam to the track frames these have fine NS threads but they still have AF heads.
This may sound strange but I have in the past had good success with freeing rusty , (seized), bores as you describe by letting them stand with vinegar in them for a few days before putting diesel in them, then removing the starter and baring the flywheel round. You will need to lift the loader arms out of your way to get at it .
I can't agree that they are difficult to bleed or start, but good starting is very dependant on the heater plugs being in good order like all indirect injection engines

Good luck.
Fred



Fred, you say you have only just seen this post? If you click on the 'quick link' tabs near the top left of the page then a drop down box appears and you can view all 'new posts' :thumbup:
I knew you would have some good input with this thread your knowledge and experience are legendary. :brravo:

Jeremy

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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #18 by FOWLER MAN » Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:07 am

Hi Jeremy, and thank you.
I only missed the post because I've been in Ireland with a gang of my Dubliner friends for a week. :dizzy: :lol: :lol:
Fred


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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #19 by Jeremy Rowland » Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:29 am

FOWLER MAN wrote:Hi Jeremy, and thank you.
I only missed the post because I've been in Ireland with a gang of my Dubliner friends for a week. :dizzy: :lol: :lol:
Fred



You had a good time then Fred say no more. :lol: :wave:

Jeremy


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Re: B100 Drott Restoration Project

Post #20 by jimmymc » Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:06 pm

Good morning!
Fred i think from what i saw on Saturday it’s definitely a BD264 thats in this one?
I think a hone would be the way forward. So i might just take the head off it and see whats what.
On the battery front then, one decent 12v commercial battery will be enough for it ?


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