The Classic Machinery Network

At last I've started to remove and replace the second side tracks on my International Drott B100. I was pleasantly surprised when I went to start her she run up first time with a bit of smoke to start with but clear really quickly considering the amount of time she has been sitting, Now I'm back into removing the track frame out come the gas axe and plenty of heat. I remember this from the last time along with a bit of advice from Martyn. I'll try to upload photos on my progress.

I have all the other 5 Bolts loos but the last remaining bolt won't budge. I've heated all round it left it to cool before attempting to break it free with a flogging spanner. Even heated and rapid cooled the area again no movement. I'll give it one last go then I guess I'll have to cut it and re-drill and thread it

Hi Joe,
These bolts were always liable to be a problem, I kept a single hexagon inch drive socket and bar for them. I could then use a six foot pipe on them if necessary.
Get someone to keep maximum pressure on the socket while you warm the frame to try to catch it while the frame has expanded but before too much heat has transferred to the bolt itself.
It can help to give the bolt head a good shocking with a sledge and drift too, (if you haven't already tried that).
I always tapped out, (cleaned), the threads in the frames and greased the bolts when assembling them so they would come out next time.
If you go down the road of drilling and tapping be aware the thread is not UNF though they do look like it.
A 1" UNF bolt has 12 threads per inch but the bolts in your track frame are 1" UNS, (Unified National Special), which have 14 threads per inch. I still have the taps in my box.
These bolts should torque up to about 500 ft. lbs. when lubricated if I remember rightly.
Good luck.
Fred

Fred,
Thanks for the information. I guess your from the old school, much like myself, I have a ring type flogging spanner connected to a 6ft+ scaffolding pole a 5 ton soft sling anchored to a tree( Big Tree) with a 2 ton chain block connected to the scaffolding pole keeping the tension, just enough. I've heated round the bolt threaded area and frame but the bugger won't budge. I've tried leaving the tension on it, left it to cool on it's own and then reheated and cooled it quickly but still it won't move. I new about the type of thread and TPI I was lucky to obtain spare bolts but I'm reluctant to cut and drill the bolt. Where did you get the taps for this and can they be purchased easily?
Thanks again.
Joe

BlackCat3 wrote:Fred,
Thanks for the information. I guess your from the old school, much like myself, I have a ring type flogging spanner connected to a 6ft+ scaffolding pole a 5 ton soft sling anchored to a tree( Big Tree) with a 2 ton chain block connected to the scaffolding pole keeping the tension, just enough. I've heated round the bolt threaded area and frame but the bugger won't budge. I've tried leaving the tension on it, left it to cool on it's own and then reheated and cooled it quickly but still it won't move. I new about the type of thread and TPI I was lucky to obtain spare bolts but I'm reluctant to cut and drill the bolt. Where did you get the taps for this and can they be purchased easily?
Thanks again.
Joe

Joe taps should be off the shelf but may cost you serious money; you could try this supplier who are very good and may even have some second hand taps for you that are much cheaper; Grasam Samson 01384 634 162 Dave or Harry. I don't know which part of the UK that you are in but they are based in Dudley, West Midlands.

Jeremy

Jeremy,
Thanks for the information, I'll give these people a ring and see what they can supply. I'm on the outskirts of Edinburgh, funny enough not to many tool suppliers left in Edinburgh. Luckily I have an old friend who still has a lot of early 1950's tools ex RAF and Royal engineers etc.
Thanks
Joe

Just an update on things. I manage to pick up a full set of taps, quite easily as it turned out. Unfortunately I been very busy on other jobs this week and haven't been able to get back onto the track bolt but hope to over the weekend.

I'm glad I managed to get the Drott track frame removed, had to use a lot of heat. Found out that four out of the five bottom rollers are needing replaced. As usual the last bolt just didn't want to come out even with the nut removed, so it was done to a lot of heat and quenching it with water several times did the trick.
I hope to replace the rollers over the weekend. Will update on my progress.

I have a drot b100 I think it’s a series 1 engine is very good goes forward an back also turns left but won’t turn right I left it bout 2 years ago An was working I’ve tryed to release it but no luck now looking to sell it as one or may sell parts