The Classic Machinery Network

Hello
I wonder if anyone can help me with a question, I am trying to fit new seals to a jcb 3c 2 dipper ram,
I have removed the screw on end cap but inside that there is what appears to be another cap, is that part screwed in or pushed in?

Also after fitting new seals does the system need bleeding or will it self bleed the air out?

As my machine has been standing outside a long time, are there any water traps in the hydraulic system? aside from the main filter housing?

Many thanks

The gland should come out now but you will have to pull out the whole rod/piston and remove the piston to change the seals. Careful every thing is quite heavy. JCB used to supply a cheat for the gland and wiper seals that were split with a zig-zag, allowing the seals to be be changed without pulling the piston.

essexpete wrote:JCB used to supply a cheat for the gland and wiper seals that were split with a zig-zag, allowing the seals to be be changed without pulling the piston.

And very handy they are too when you can't get the piston off the sodding rod lol

essexpete wrote:The gland should come out now but you will have to pull out the whole rod/piston and remove the piston to change the seals. Careful every thing is quite heavy. JCB used to supply a cheat for the gland and wiper seals that were split with a zig-zag, allowing the seals to be be changed without pulling the piston.

Thanks

I tried giving the gland a tap but it was reluctant to move so I started to wonder if it may be threaded, perhaps it just needs more gentle persuasion!
I have heard of the split seals but not had any luck in locating a seller, tried my local jcb dealer but they said the 3c was to old for them to supply seals.
The only company I know of is claron that say they can get a seal kit for the 2" x 4" 3c 2 ram
In my case the ram still works ok its just the gland and wiper that leak

Hi,
Put a pin into the eye at the end of the rod, extend it to the end of its stroke and give the pin a good thump. The gland should then come out with the rod. "Take care it's heavy!"
I have in the past had to use the machines hydraulics to blow out a tight gland housing. " Again take care!!!"
You may have a job to undo the piston nut too, if I remember rightly the tightening torque is over 300 ft. lbs.

If your wiper seal is OK and you wish to go down the road of fitting the split chevron seals which Pete mentioned there's nothing to stop you cutting them yourself. Use a sharp Stanley knife and cut them at 45 degrees across the length of the ram. Stagger the cuts when installing the seals so that the cuts don't line up with each other. This was common practice at one time.

FOWLER MAN wrote:Hi,
Put a pin into the eye at the end of the rod, extend it to the end of its stroke and give the pin a good thump. The gland should then come out with the rod. "Take care it's heavy!"
I have in the past had to use the machines hydraulics to blow out a tight gland housing. " Again take care!!!"
You may have a job to undo the piston nut too, if I remember rightly the tightening torque is over 300 ft. lbs.

If your wiper seal is OK and you wish to go down the road of fitting the split chevron seals which Pete mentioned there's nothing to stop you cutting them yourself. Use a sharp Stanley knife and cut them at 45 degrees across the length of the ram. Stagger the cuts when installing the seals so that the cuts don't line up with each other. This was common practice at one time.

Thanks, I will give that a go
I have just ordered a seal kit from clarron
Regards

If its useful to anyone, the seal kit from clarion came with a split rod seal so can be fitted without removal if needed
However when I got my ram apart I found this, the gland is damaged at the second O ring seal some how, so looks like I will need to find a replacement gland or complete ram after all unfortunately.

Mike I would be tempted to dress that damaged gland using a file, if its too badly damaged then perhaps a local engineering machine shop could 'knock you one up' for a 'drink'?

Jeremy

Jeremy Rowland wrote:Mike I would be tempted to dress that damaged gland using a file, if its too badly damaged then perhaps a local engineering machine shop could 'knock you one up' for a 'drink'?

Jeremy

Hello
I did wonder if it may be possible to repair it, the edge has completely crumbled and the chunks are just wedged in so there is nothing to support the O ring now although the second O ring may not be critical so it would probably work ok without. I have not checked the internal cylinder surface yet but suspect it may be scored but if its ok I may try a repair.
Difficult to imagine what could have caused such damage aside from a poorly done repair job in the past perhaps.
Thanks

Mike I'd definitely have a go at repairing it, after all you cannot make it any worse than it already is, if you do repair it when you put it back make sure the repaired side is away from where it was in the cylinder, coming to that is the inside surface of the cylinder scored?

Jeremy