anti freeze any help please

[clouty]

hi need to get some anti freeze in my digger before the cold snap sets in

i have no idea if there is even any anti freeze in it lol so whats best to do??

how easy to flush it right out? is normal car anti freeze sufficient??

is it just a case of taking a pipe of either end and blasting a hose through it??

[martyn williams]

Drain down system but remember to collect it in a suitable container for disposal.Flush system through with water untill running clear.Check condition of hoses,are they split or perished. On my Fordson a few years back I removed core plugs to flush out the block.Lots of sedement was removed. Refill with a mix of at least 30% antifreeze.Run up engine and check for leaks.Antifreeze is good at finding leaks.
On the cooling system in general I would make sure that the radiator fins are not blocked / flat, and check condition of fan belt.
Try to avoid reusing antifreeze that you have drained as it may be old and understrength.Antifreeze is also contains an anti corrosion agent in it to prevent cavitation.Raw water can attack liners and combustion chambers.
Hope this helps
Martyn

[martyn williams]

PS All my machines have a 50 % mix glycol , its blue antifreeze,the pinky stuff used in cars will be ok if correct strength.There may be a tap on the block and base of radiator,failing that remove bottom hose on radiator. Don't dispose old antifreeze down drains.
Martyn

[modelman093]

Think that most brands of AF are now compatible with both iron and aluminium but in days gone by they were not so if you've got ally bits such as thermostat housings make sure that what you buy is ok for your engine. Some brands of AF change colour to tell you when the anti corrosive/frost protection quality is reduced. At that point top up with neat AF until the colour changes back to safe. The Coventry Climax ally block engines used in fire pumps and then Hillman Imp cars needed a special AF - Blucol AA- that was bright green and referred to around the workshop as Virgin's Water!

[FOWLER MAN]

HI,
I just noticed this post. Can't think why nobody has mentioned a "Hydrometer", I've used one for years.
Just a little instrument to measure the density of the coolant, it will be calibrated to tell whether you need to add anti-freeze or not.
You can obtain these quite cheaply from motor factors or automotive tool supliers.
A lot cheaper than wasting anti-freeze, or worse a cracked block, and gives you complete peace of mind.
Fred

[martyn williams]

I have got the four balls in the tube type that indicate strength of antifreeze.There are many types on the market and can be quite cheap from places like Halfords. If in doubt,change antifreeze.
Also people with the older Caterpillars such as D2 and D4 j and u series if you just drain the water during the winter months,slacken off the donkey engine heads as water can remain in the lower water jacket.If that freezes it can crack your block.Best to fill with antifreeze to prevent this happening.Also remember antifreeze will degrade if in the system for a number of years,it will also lose its other protection properties.Raw water will eat into castings and chambers.I will post a photo of a Cat combustion chamber that has been attacked by raw water.
Martyn

[modelman093]

HI,
I just noticed this post. Can't think why nobody has mentioned a "Hydrometer", I've used one for years.
Just a little instrument to measure the density of the coolant, it will be calibrated to tell whether you need to add anti-freeze or not.
You can obtain these quite cheaply from motor factors or automotive tool supliers.
A lot cheaper than wasting anti-freeze, or worse a cracked block, and gives you complete peace of mind.
Fred

Care needed here - if you have an old hydrometer it possibly only good for testing the older ethylene glycol based anti freeze. Modern AF is likely to be propylene glycol based and needs a different hydrometer. A refractometer type tester will deal with both and also battery acid and screen wash but is relatively expensive at £60-£70

[Jeremy Rowland]

Perhaps a more important issue here is to make sure that you run the engine up to its full working temperature after draining it and adding antifreeze to make sure that you don't have an airlock. If you do have an airlock simply slacken the top hose off the thermostat housing and make sure there is no air in the system.
Also make sure that any coolant flows freely to the highest point in the cooling system to make sure that you have no air trapped in the cooling system, you will very quickly know if you have because the temp guage will go in to the red when the engine has warmed up.

Jeremy

[martyn williams]

I also mix up antifreeze in a drum to make sure its a good mix.Some just put a gallon of antifreeze in the engine an top it up with water.You will find that anti freeze today will be ok for all types of engines,but always check to make sure.I have got a Hydrometer but thats for checking home brew ond not tractor antifreeze
Been doing a lot of antifreeze checks on the locos of late as they can take nearly a 100 gallons.
Also on your older machines I think its wise to start them up once a month,also on hydraulic rams,close them so the chrome is not exposed to the elements if the machine is put away for the winter ,on track machines I would also move them back and forth and slew them a few times to prevent steering clutches from sticking.Also make sure that you exhaust pipe is covered.There has been many a good machine ruined by rain water getting down the stack, I use heavy duty rubber gloves.Weather flaps are a good investment.
Martyn