service my JCB 3CX number No. 343566/P,

[essexpete]

Is the transmission controlled by a large manual lever or a smaller electric lever?
You will need to flush out as much contaminated oil as is possible and possibly carry out a second follow up change. Perhaps take of pipes carefully to allow further drain.

[gecko.cx]

You will need to flush out as much contaminated oil as is possible and possibly carry out a second follow up change.

Edit:
Apologies, we were talking engine oils and assumed it was the engine oil that was contaminated.
Very important not to put friction modified engine oil in a transmission.


I would do the same - [s] 10L of the cheapest oil you can get and run it until the engine is warm. Drain it and assess how much water is left. Refill with good oil [/s]
Ideally you would change the filter each time too.

The correct (engine) filter should be:
JCB 2100284
Donaldson P554403

https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-sg/ ... 4403/20894
you can see a cross-reference for many equivalents

[agrimax]

The engine should be a Perkins 1004 (-4T if it's turboed).

Cheers.
Do you know when the engine changed from Leland to Perkins?
The manual I linked above (from the downloads section) is shown as covering serials: 290000 - 400000
Sorry - I missed that the manual covers both the Leland 4/98 and Perkins 4.236 engines (it's too early for a 1000 series isn't it?)

Leyland to Perkins happened in 1982(or possibly late 1981).
The serial no.s can be a bit confusing at times. The op's number actually relates to a 3CX 4wd-Australia but for me to find it in the JCB parts website,I had to look under ''3D'' instead of 3CX!

You need to get that transmission oil cleaned and changed immediately as the clutch pack plates will suffer big time with the water contamination.It'll be a Jcb (ITL)Synchroshuttle which runs with Automatic Transmission Fluid--ATF D2 or 3. Drain what you can from the drain plug on the transmission and there is a rubber grommet(rectangular plug) underneath too that can be removed to allow access to the torque converter. Turn the TC by hand(prise with a lever if need be) and you should see a plug on the side of it which should be removed to drain the rest of the oil from it. Change the filter too. Baldwin BT9561 is one example for that filter.Refill through the long dipstick tube on the right of picture 2. Need to let the oil settle until it runs off the sides of the tube before dipping again with the engine stopped. Personally I would shake and rinse the old filter out with petrol and refit it and change the oil perhaps twice before doing a final change and fit the new filter.

I'm guessing you have an 8 stud rear axle(rather than 5 with reduction hubs). It needs a Super Universal 10w30 (SUTO) or UTTO oil which is suitable for wet brakes but some users say their brakes groan and squawk unless JCB's own Special Gear Oil is used. Mine works fine on non JCB stuff.The front axle and hubs requires HD90 gear oil.
If the brake reservoirs need topping up,only use mineral fluid 10 or 15w. LHM fluid. DO NOT USE synthetic DOT brake fluid as found in most cars.

[essexpete]

The engine should be a Perkins 1004 (-4T if it's turboed).

Cheers.
Do you know when the engine changed from Leland to Perkins?
The manual I linked above (from the downloads section) is shown as covering serials: 290000 - 400000
Sorry - I missed that the manual covers both the Leland 4/98 and Perkins 4.236 engines (it's too early for a 1000 series isn't it?)

Leyland to Perkins happened in 1982(or possibly late 1981).
The serial no.s can be a bit confusing at times. The op's number actually relates to a 3CX 4wd-Australia but for me to find it in the JCB parts website,I had to look under ''3D'' instead of 3CX!

You need to get that transmission oil cleaned and changed immediately as the clutch pack plates will suffer big time with the water contamination.It'll be a Jcb (ITL)Synchroshuttle which runs with Automatic Transmission Fluid--ATF D2 or 3. Drain what you can from the drain plug on the transmission and there is a rubber grommet(rectangular plug) underneath too that can be removed to allow access to the torque converter. Turn the TC by hand(prise with a lever if need be) and you should see a plug on the side of it which should be removed to drain the rest of the oil from it. Change the filter too. Baldwin BT9561 is one example for that filter.Refill through the long dipstick tube on the right of picture 2. Need to let the oil settle until it runs off the sides of the tube before dipping again with the engine stopped. Personally I would shake and rinse the old filter out with petrol and refit it and change the oil perhaps twice before doing a final change and fit the new filter.

I'm guessing you have an 8 stud rear axle(rather than 5 with reduction hubs). It needs a Super Universal 10w30 (SUTO) or UTTO oil which is suitable for wet brakes but some users say their brakes groan and squawk unless JCB's own Special Gear Oil is used. Mine works fine on non JCB stuff.The front axle and hubs requires HD90 gear oil.
If the brake reservoirs need topping up,only use mineral fluid 10 or 15w. LHM fluid. DO NOT USE synthetic DOT brake fluid as found in most cars.

Funny you should say, but our old Power Train was terrible with UTTO and a Manitou with (I think Dana axles?) was appalling with UTTO, both brakes and LSD.

[leloupsblanc]

[leloupsblanc]

[gecko.cx]

While you have it drained, there is a screen to be cleaned.