Changing a hub seal on jcb 214

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wayne111
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Changing a hub seal on jcb 214

Post #1 by wayne111 » Tue Jun 06, 2017 10:42 pm

I am changing a hub seal on the back wheel of a 2002 jcb 214 backhoe . I managed to remove everything and replace the seal and reassemble the hub, bearings and seal. The manual which I downloaded from this site, indicated that the 8 14mm bolts on the annulator should be tightened to 236 ft/lbs. I have a problem if I tighten these bolts at all, the wheel binds so tight I can't move it by hand. The manual indicated that the rotation pressure should only be 20-30 lbs heavier than before you tighten the bolts. The bearings are both seated up to the metal in the hub, the seal is flush with the back of the hub and everything looks OK. I afraid to tighten the annulator and drive it for fear of damaging the gears.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to the cause? Do the annulator bolts really have to be that tight?


Jeremy Rowland
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Re: Changing a hub seal on jcb 214

Post #2 by Jeremy Rowland » Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:35 pm

wayne111 wrote:I am changing a hub seal on the back wheel of a 2002 jcb 214 backhoe . I managed to remove everything and replace the seal and reassemble the hub, bearings and seal. The manual which I downloaded from this site, indicated that the 8 14mm bolts on the annulator should be tightened to 236 ft/lbs. I have a problem if I tighten these bolts at all, the wheel binds so tight I can't move it by hand. The manual indicated that the rotation pressure should only be 20-30 lbs heavier than before you tighten the bolts. The bearings are both seated up to the metal in the hub, the seal is flush with the back of the hub and everything looks OK. I afraid to tighten the annulator and drive it for fear of damaging the gears.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to the cause? Do the annulator bolts really have to be that tight?


Hi Wayne; if you even tighten the bolts by 'nipping' them up and the wheel binds then you have a problem, I am not sure exactly what this assembly should look like or how the wheel bearings are correctly setup but the wheel bearings must turn freely but have no play in them unless they are pre-loaded, are you sure that there is not a spacer missing?
Sorry but unless there is somebody on here who has done this job before then that is the only advice I can give you.

Jeremy


Topic author
wayne111
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2016 10:08 pm
Real name: Wayne
Flag: Canada

Re: Changing a hub seal on jcb 214

Post #3 by wayne111 » Thu Jun 08, 2017 12:52 pm

Thanks Jeremy, but there are no spacers on this. The seal sits against the axle casing with the inner roller bearing pressed to it. The outside of the axle casing has the Annulus carrier with 8 bolts that press against the outer roller bearing. Everything moves freely until I tighten the 8 bolts and even at 140lbs I have to use a bar to rotate the hub. The service manual says 236 ft/lbs should be the torque for these bolts. If I leave the bolts loose enough so that the hubs spins freely I'm afraid I will loose a bolt into the planetary gears and too tight I'm afraid I'll strip the drive shaft or the rear end. One bearing and the seal are new. I'm thinking that one or the other may be slightly thicker than the original part even though they look the same and have the correct part numbers.


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Re: Changing a hub seal on jcb 214

Post #4 by Jeremy Rowland » Thu Jun 08, 2017 1:46 pm

wayne111 wrote:Thanks Jeremy, but there are no spacers on this. The seal sits against the axle casing with the inner roller bearing pressed to it. The outside of the axle casing has the Annulus carrier with 8 bolts that press against the outer roller bearing. Everything moves freely until I tighten the 8 bolts and even at 140lbs I have to use a bar to rotate the hub. The service manual says 236 ft/lbs should be the torque for these bolts. If I leave the bolts loose enough so that the hubs spins freely I'm afraid I will loose a bolt into the planetary gears and too tight I'm afraid I'll strip the drive shaft or the rear end. One bearing and the seal are new. I'm thinking that one or the other may be slightly thicker than the original part even though they look the same and have the correct part numbers.


Try measuring the bearing and the seal and compare them to the old ones, use a vernier or a micrometer; so long as you have not destroyed the old seal if it will fit back in its place without too much bother do a dry run with the old parts and see if the assembly turns okay, it may be that the new parts are slightly different? Sorry that I can't help you any more than as I have suggested.

Jeremy


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