Chaps! My old 3c2 is turning out to be a great machine in many ways,even though masses of things need re sealing,replacing or rebuilding. I still can't believe how powerful they are!
The engine has sprung its 3rd coolant leak now, all through core plugs- are there any core plug kits for these?
I still haven't freed of the lower hydra clamp nuts yet,to enable me to slide the back actor across. I keep soaking them,but have been told the only way to get them off is cut them off. Bit loathed to do this as the threads are good and clean still. Lastly,what sort of pressure do you boys stick In the rear tyres? Mine have 25psi in,but look soft as hell especially the side carrying the actor.
Cheers for now.
Core plugs nuts!
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
I would have thought 25 psi would be about as high I would go ( doesnt mean Im right ) but most rear tractor tyres only have 15 psi max
Paul
Paul
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
Simon you can easily acquire new core plugs for the engine block; when you take the old ones out clean up the casting around where you intend to fit the new plug, put some Loctite or other decent sealer around the new core plug and gently tap it into place with a hammer, make sure it is fully home and I would leave the sealer a good 24hours before putting any coolant into the system.
Jeremy
Jeremy
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
I agree with you about the tyre pressure- the most I put in my tractor is 15psi, but this rear JCB tyre really deforms. Probably time for another pair before they blowout on me.
Thanks for the core plug info too- I've changed many over the years,but was just hoping it's possible to buy a complete set for the engine,as there seems to be a few different sizes,and rural France is a bit tricky to get hold of stuff from unless I buy it online.
Thanks both of you for your help though.
Thanks for the core plug info too- I've changed many over the years,but was just hoping it's possible to buy a complete set for the engine,as there seems to be a few different sizes,and rural France is a bit tricky to get hold of stuff from unless I buy it online.
Thanks both of you for your help though.
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
you can go higher with the pressure I guess because the that tube will scuff on the wall of the tyre when driving if it bulges to much but they ( tractor tyres ) dont hold a lot of pressure by design
Paul
Paul
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
Mine are pretty ropey too,splits and perished like crazy,so just a matter of time before they pop!
I'll try and get some industrial ones that are good used ones. I have the standard 16 inch rims on the front with the split rim thing,with equally rough tyres. I've changed a few tyres this size ,and rears but not one of these- any tips how to remove the metal band off the rim? And what is the biggest tyre I can stick on these rims- it has 9x16s at the mo,but wonder what's the biggest they would take?
I'll try and get some industrial ones that are good used ones. I have the standard 16 inch rims on the front with the split rim thing,with equally rough tyres. I've changed a few tyres this size ,and rears but not one of these- any tips how to remove the metal band off the rim? And what is the biggest tyre I can stick on these rims- it has 9x16s at the mo,but wonder what's the biggest they would take?
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
how many bits makes up the rim two or three ?? a photo will help
Paul
Paul
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
Think it's a two piece rim,like this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jcb3-Front-Wh ... 10bb895f:g:
Looking at it, I suppose you break the beads as usual, lever out the metal rim lock thing,then slide the tyre off? Easy as that!!! Yeah right! Bet it's a swine?!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jcb3-Front-Wh ... 10bb895f:g:
Looking at it, I suppose you break the beads as usual, lever out the metal rim lock thing,then slide the tyre off? Easy as that!!! Yeah right! Bet it's a swine?!
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
no its a fairly straight forward job once you break the bead thats the hardest part normally
your pretty much onto it make sure the lock part of the rim is spot on and the rim is all in good nick good time to pain the inside
when your fitting the tyre tube and rust band semi inflate them a bit all put together and drop the whole lot back over and then thread the valve thru
Sit the split bit back on and it will be like a big spring washer start at the low side and hook it under then standing on it you should be able to get around half the rim back in by just standing on it then tap the rest back in with what I call a mash hammer ( a small sledge hammer ) till the whole lots back in
Then slowly inflate tapping that locking ring constantly around and around till the tyre is fully seated say around 20 25 psi no more
If it wont all lock in deflate and start again something isnt right I have never had this happen but people who keep on going can end up dead or badly hurt
A lot of tyre places have a cage to fully inflate them I dont I just slide the tyre when its at that 20 - 25 psi range under a truck or tractor to finish the job I have never had one go boom and I dont personally know anyone that has had one let go but it does happen if you dont do it right really got to make sure that rim is locked together properly and the tyre is seated on its bead at that 20 - 25 PSI range
Use plenty of mums dishwashing liquid to help the tyre slide on the rim to help it seat gently may even have to tap the tyre wall in spots to get to to slide out but it should happen easily and is fairly straight forward
Paul
be careful
your pretty much onto it make sure the lock part of the rim is spot on and the rim is all in good nick good time to pain the inside
when your fitting the tyre tube and rust band semi inflate them a bit all put together and drop the whole lot back over and then thread the valve thru
Sit the split bit back on and it will be like a big spring washer start at the low side and hook it under then standing on it you should be able to get around half the rim back in by just standing on it then tap the rest back in with what I call a mash hammer ( a small sledge hammer ) till the whole lots back in
Then slowly inflate tapping that locking ring constantly around and around till the tyre is fully seated say around 20 25 psi no more
If it wont all lock in deflate and start again something isnt right I have never had this happen but people who keep on going can end up dead or badly hurt
A lot of tyre places have a cage to fully inflate them I dont I just slide the tyre when its at that 20 - 25 psi range under a truck or tractor to finish the job I have never had one go boom and I dont personally know anyone that has had one let go but it does happen if you dont do it right really got to make sure that rim is locked together properly and the tyre is seated on its bead at that 20 - 25 PSI range
Use plenty of mums dishwashing liquid to help the tyre slide on the rim to help it seat gently may even have to tap the tyre wall in spots to get to to slide out but it should happen easily and is fairly straight forward
Paul
be careful
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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Re: Core plugs nuts!
Thanks Paul,good points you've given me there. Always worth painting the rim while the tyres off too isn't it. And your idea of sticking it under a tractor is a good one too. ( I used easy start to get a tyre to sit on a rim while back,and stood round the corner of a building with a flame on a long stick to light it-worked a treat!) .
Cheers Paul.
Cheers Paul.
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