B414 Clutch not engaging

[dctaz37]

In a previous post I stated that my clutch pedal was pulsating when depressed. I just bought this tractor a week ago and the guy said it was an early 70's. After researching I know that isn't the case. The SN is 5771 Diesel so I think it is either a 62 or 63, can someone verify this? Anyhow, I used it for about an hour total and finally dragged my first log out of the bush. Pushed the clutch pedal and nothing, had to pull the kill switch to stop. I'm guessing I'm toast but please advise. Also, are special tools required to change it if required?

[TrevorJ]

When you create multiple threads it is easy to forget what you've asked already.

How to find out what year B414

Yes it would be 62

As I also stated in the other "oil thread" thread, it could be various things - but now it won't disengage - it rules a few things out. I don't think it's worth speculating that much, as I know almost certainly you'll need to split the tractor to have a look at the clutch assembly.

However, out of curiosity, when you push the clutch, can you feel any spring pressure from the clutch springs ie anything more than just the pedal return spring?


Special tools apart from regular tools: a clutch alignment tool (which I usually just use a wood lathe to make one to suit) & a frame to enable either section to slide on when splitting the two sections (the other section is usually blocked in place.) Of course it you were doing this on a hard surface, you'd get by with a suitable trolley jack instead of a frame.

[dctaz37]

Sorry about not knowing the year, I did see your post but I just wasn't 100% sure of how to read it. Yes there seems to be pressure about 1/2 down on the clutch pedal. Any detailed instruction on how to split the transmission? I downloaded the manual but the pictures aren't clear and are few and far between. How long would this take? Which half needs to be supported? Thank in advance.

[Mrsmackpaul]

you can support either half I always support the front half and roll the back half the big wheels are much easier push if you dont have a good concrete slap to work on for the jack to roll you can make up a set of rails out of some angel iron and a little trolley to sit a bottle jack on that runs on the rail I no of farmers that use these and they work fine
I always get two big long bolts as long as i can bye like 8 inchs long the same thread as the bell housing bolts and cut the head off them I then grind a flat on each side were the head was and then I can use them for a guide when I am pushing the two halves back together
You will also need some timber wedges or blocks as well to support the front of the tractor were the front axle is other wise it will want to tip over sideways when when you split the tractor
If you havent done this before I would allow two days at least by the time you split the tractor then you will have to source parts ect and every tractor is different if you are experinced and had the parts one day would be fine good luck

Paul

you might want to pull the loader of as well might make things a bit easier lining it back up

[dctaz37]

I found that there is an inspection plate below. Removed that and found that one of the forks was lower than the other two. On further inspection I found that the bolt is broken. Slotted head bolt with taper and lock nut at the other end. Anyone see this before?

[dctaz37]

I ordered the parts. In the meantime, can someone let me know the petal adjustment. The manual has many options for different size plates but I'm not sure.

[dctaz37]

The broken bolt is 3 on the diagram.

[Mrsmackpaul]

I have seen those type of clutches before never work on a IH 414 before I would be inclined to split the tractor to get a good look at what is going on in there anyway Im sure you will work it out good luck and keep us posted

Paul

[dctaz37]

The access panel lets me see everything and there was minimal debride on the underside of the cover so I think that is good news. Can someone let me know the petal adjustment. The manual has many options for different size plates but I'm not sure.

[TrevorJ]

The alignment of the bolts by the "manual" is fairly exacting, but if you intend to put the bolt in just to get the tractor to a better place to split it, then fair enough if you can do it. You'd just need to note how far out the other two remaining bolts are out and make all three the same when you put them in.

However, I suspect the problem that caused it in the first place - is the throwout bearing sticking. You might be able to squirt some good thin oil (ie some spray can lube) into the bearing to thin out the dried up grease and rust. On the other had if the cage has split in the bearing and it's locked fast, either you start the tractor in gear, have someone tow you "out of there" or split it where it is.

There is also another nagging thought which I hadn't thought of, but reflecting on your problem and proposed "simple fix" with someone else, was that the bolts might have the end of the thread bruised over ... ie they won't unscrew out of the fingers completely without first grinding or cutting the offending damaged thread off. I really don't have any clue if they did that with those models. Hopefully someone who has pulled out and stripped down a B414 model and replaced these bolts, might be able to remember if the threads were bruised over.