The Classic Machinery Network

Slooby wrote: and...nothing, nada, zilch...

Ok, I guess it's back to basics - assume everything is faulty until it's proven otherwise.

Put a test-light on the trigger terminal of the solenoid - If it lights when you turn the key, the problem is with the statermotor.
If it doesn't light, the problem is with the battery/leads/switch/lockout.

Is your solenoid the common 'two stud' type or the funky four stud type?

I've yet to perform a continuity check on the circuit since fitting the new solenoid, but with the old one everything up to the solenoid seemed to be unbroken, nothing open circuit. Because the old Solenoid didn't 'click' when the key was turned or when direct-wired to either the tractor battery or a.n.other we assumed the field winding had died.

The original solenoid pulled off the tractor 10 or so years ago was a two stud, its replacement was a 4 stud as is the latest one too.

I'll take the test-light and DVM out to it later for a probe, starting to suspect the Lucas key switch that I stripped and cleaned may not be making contact after my prising open of the casing and re-crimping attempt with a chisel

Having looked inside a few Lucas switches, I'd suspect that too!!

Just to clarify - the starter only has a single input? (from the solenoid)

I would begin by using jump leads direct on the starter. If it's dead, it's dead. If it spins, move on.
Reconnect the solenoid. Run a wire from the trigger terminal to battery live. Nothing> check the earth to the solenoid. If it clicks but no spin, then look at the live between the solenoid output and the starter. If it clicks and spins, move on.
You are now almost certainly looking at the keyswitch. With the switch removed but still connected identify the live from the battery then using a bridge wire, flash each of the remaining wires until one fires the starter. If that works then the key is at fault and from memory not worth trying to repair.

Hold on, wait a minute...? Stoopid question time.
Is the range selector in neutral???

Range selector?

As in PTO lever, if so yes, and the transmission too

I've not really had a chance to take another look at it as I've been tinkering with my own stuff.

Will try to take some pics of the arrangement over the weekend

Sorry, meant the trans Hi/lo. The switch there may be worth a look at some point.

I must admit I haven't checked the high/low range selector position, but did have continuity on both poles of the neutral position switch, with the gear shifter in neutral, so have assumed that it is functioning correctly

You need to start with a test-light as it will rule out half the possibles immediately.
- The battery lead on the solenoid should always be hot.
- The 'thin' wire should go hot when you turn the key

I'm still stuck on the 4-stud solenoid. It has two sets on contacts which behave independently.
Is this what yours looks like?



Is the shorting bar (A) present?
Is the motor connected to "B" terminal?

That's exactly how I wired it; B goes to the starter motor, the battery feed goes to one of the conjoined A posts, with the ignition switch live coming off the other. The ignition switched live then goes through the neutral position switch to the solenoir coil pole which is a spade terminal on our ones rather than the phillips screw terminal on your pic above A

My dad has been fiddling around and found by checking the solenoids again with a direct feed that both work fine, so there's something going on either with the motor, the ignition switch, the neutral switch or a combination of things

(added some more letters)

For confidence, check the motor is connected to the "B-C" terminal

Start with the Test-Light connected to a good ground
- Check the battery cable "A-E" are always hot
- now try "F" and see if it lights when you turn the key

Move the Test-Light ground to "B" and repeat the two tests above