60's ish Nimbus - new owner maintenance help pls

[Cheekymonkey]

Hi Guys,

Picked this up this weekend. I believe a Thwaites Nimbus perhaps mid 60's? Left hand drive I used to drive one when i was 12 on a farm I worked on. Got this to help on property refurb & garden work.



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Got a few issues to look at & would appreciate some help & pointers on the following. I have included pics where I can.

1. Clutch is slipping in 3rd. I think there is some adjustment from what I have read online but I'm not clear what i actually adjust! Any pics or pointers appreciated.

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2. Brakes are crap (to be expected) I will go through them in the winter but where's a good place for parts (new shoes etc.) in the UK? Any part numbers?

3. Oil leak - anything to be concerned about?


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4. Decompression lever seems to be missing something to hold it in from the other side? Is it just a circlip or something?

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5. Fuel pump(??) rubbers perished - worth replacing?

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6. Correct start / stop procedure - it's been 27yrs since i did this... Start... lift compression lever & make sure this screw is pulled to the outside i think this is to prime the pump?

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To stop just pull back on this throttle linkage? (there is another level same as decompression lever but by the fuel pump - what does that do?

7. think i need a new airfilter... part number? Will this do? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272029163257?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


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sorry so many Q's figured get it all out there

she's been put to good use already - i reckon 20 barrow loads of hedge cuttings per load... saved me a lot of walking yesterday
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[Jeremy Rowland]

Nice one Pete and welcome to CMN I would imagine that parts for these are off the shelf? If not brake linings are not an issue you can get new linings fitted to the old ones if need be. Good luck with it.

Jeremy

[mechman]

The lever to the right and just below the pump is a primer for the pump, I'm assuming its a Petters engine.

[essexpete]

That takes me back as I learnt to drive on one as well. Brakes always worked but I did have to re build the gear box and steering box both due to water ingress. Used to push the throttle wider open with my foot on the rack. Dad spotted me one day due to the plume of black smoke. Used it for chain harrows and that made it work hard. IIRR you can stop it on the primer lever.

[FOWLER MAN]

Hi Pete,
The Petter PH engine is exactly the same as fitted to some Winget dumpers and you can download a workshop manual at winget.co.uk.
Spares are still available from them or from most small plant dealers.

1) You should find a square adjuster on the clutch back plate which operates exactly like a brake adjuster.
To make the adjustment get someone to depress the clutch pedal and hold it all the way down. Tighten the adjuster all the way and slack it back till you can just rock the drum back and fore.
That should sort it unless it needs re-lining, if so you can get the shoes re-lined as Jeremy suggested for the brake shoes.

2) The push rod tubes are easy to reseal, they are telescopic with a spring inside to extend them. Remove the rockers, withdraw the push rods and you can shorten the tubes and lift them out easily. You may have to buy a top overhaul gasket set to obtain the seals?

3) I don't know what happened to your decompressor but on the earlier engines the rod was retained by a split pin backed up by a couple of washers. You could drill yours and do the same. To take the rod out take off the broken piece from the end, slack the lock nut and screw out the decompressor pin inside the rocker box and slide the rod out.
To reset the pin turn the engine to TDC screw the pin finger tight onto the rocker then give it just half a turn more. Tighten the lock nut.

4) I would certainly change the rubber boots on the fuel pump rack if you can but it needn't stop you using the dumper.

5) When you pull out the set screw to outside the pump it allows the rack to move further into the pump which feeds excess fuel to the injector for easy starting.
The lever to the right of the pump operates the pump plunger and primes the injector for bleeding. It is also the correct way to stop the engine when held up in the vertical position.
The air cleaner you found will be OK, but what about a fuel filter? There may not even be one in there, check it out.
Hope this helps.
Fred

[Cheekymonkey]

Hi Pete,
The Petter PH engine is exactly the same as fitted to some Winget dumpers and you can download a workshop manual at winget.co.uk.
Spares are still available from them or from most small plant dealers.

1) You should find a square adjuster on the clutch back plate which operates exactly like a brake adjuster.
To make the adjustment get someone to depress the clutch pedal and hold it all the way down. Tighten the adjuster all the way and slack it back till you can just rock the drum back and fore.
That should sort it unless it needs re-lining, if so you can get the shoes re-lined as Jeremy suggested for the brake shoes.

2) The push rod tubes are easy to reseal, they are telescopic with a spring inside to extend them. Remove the rockers, withdraw the push rods and you can shorten the tubes and lift them out easily. You may have to buy a top overhaul gasket set to obtain the seals?

3) I don't know what happened to your decompressor but on the earlier engines the rod was retained by a split pin backed up by a couple of washers. You could drill yours and do the same. To take the rod out take off the broken piece from the end, slack the lock nut and screw out the decompressor pin inside the rocker box and slide the rod out.
To reset the pin turn the engine to TDC screw the pin finger tight onto the rocker then give it just half a turn more. Tighten the lock nut.

4) I would certainly change the rubber boots on the fuel pump rack if you can but it needn't stop you using the dumper.

5) When you pull out the set screw to outside the pump it allows the rack to move further into the pump which feeds excess fuel to the injector for easy starting.
The lever to the right of the pump operates the pump plunger and primes the injector for bleeding. It is also the correct way to stop the engine when held up in the vertical position.
The air cleaner you found will be OK, but what about a fuel filter? There may not even be one in there, check it out.
Hope this helps.
Fred

Thanks Fred, VERY helpful.

I have found a full filter kit for only a few quid so will get the lot as that's a simple job. I have yet to find the rubber boots for the fuel rack but will perhaps email Petter direct for the part numbers. Will also look at top gasket set so I can sort the decompression level & the push rod tubes in one job - but perhaps in the winter when not using so much.

Any tips on fluids to use? What viscocity for engine (couldn't find it on the winget manual) Have assumed EP90 in the diff. What about gearbox? I've paid the price on my old landrover of not keeping all the fluids sorted so that's a priority for me too.

The UJ's are also shot to bits, barely anything left of them so that's another winter job when i've checked the cup size.

EDIT - been looking at gasket sets... which of these would be correct? https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/P ... nd-Joints/

[FOWLER MAN]

Hello again,
That stationaryengine.com have got everything you need. Good find there.
Order top end gasket set for the Petter PH. They have the rubber boots, (bellows), for your injector pump too.

Click on Petter spares, then on PH & PHW spares, then on fuel injection spares and scroll to the bottom of the page.
You'll see them there "rubber bellows for Bryce pump. stock No.1/157."

For the engine workshop manual Google " winget.co.uk " and the Winget site will come up. There should be a sub heading for Manuals, click on it and then scroll down till you see the heading "Lister Petter Engines" Select the PH download and you'll have it.
Fred

[Cheekymonkey]

Thanks fred ordered all the gaskets, boots and filters tonight so good to go! Thanks for the help

[Cheekymonkey]

Service items arrived today.

air filter easy

fuel filter... wow i think it was due don't you?

Anyone know if you can change the fuel rack bellows with it all in situ without too much hassle??

[Tillywolves]

I think yours is the same as mine.... have a read, and the manual is on page 2.

New purchase... Nimbus ?