1970s thwaites orion axle hub question

lildumper · Post #1 by **lildumper** » Mon May 16, 2011 8:33 pm

Hello, I need a bit of help with removing the hub off a thwaites orion dumper. I've the large hub castle nut and cotter pin removed (not an easy task) and removed the large outer washer. I've removed the brake backer plate bolts that secures it to the axle flange so it's loose. The half shaft is still firmly secured to the hub and wont slide out of the differential (like a land rover). Is there a pin somewhere that holds the half shaft into the diff. I do see a woodruff type key behind the large outer castle nut and washer. Does this need to be removed and if so, how? It's a leys type differential. I just found an 2 cyl lister orion with a duel ram hydralic factory cement bucket. I've seen the regular skip type bucket version and the orion with the back actor but not one these. It has the looks of the ransomes cement dumper.
Thanks for any help, lads
Josh

Julian · Post #2 by **Julian** » Mon May 16, 2011 10:24 pm

lildumper wrote:Hello, I need a bit of help with removing the hub off a thwaites orion dumper. I've the large hub castle nut and cotter pin removed (not an easy task) and removed the large outer washer. I've removed the brake backer plate bolts that secures it to the axle flange so it's loose. The half shaft is still firmly secured to the hub and wont slide out of the differential (like a land rover). Is there a pin somewhere that holds the half shaft into the diff. I do see a woodruff type key behind the large outer castle nut and washer. Does this need to be removed and if so, how? It's a leys type differential. I just found an 2 cyl lister orion with a duel ram hydralic factory cement bucket. I've seen the regular skip type bucket version and the orion with the back actor but not one these. It has the looks of the ransomes cement dumper.
Thanks for any help, lads
Josh

It's a Salisbury diff I think. Check how the job's done on a Landrover 101 maybe - If it's like the Salisbury diff on my Jensen Interceptor then you need a powerful puller to pull the hub off the half shaft. It's on a taper.

The standard hydraulic 10 ton puller that you find on the shelf at Machine Mart probably isn't man enough. When I had to remove a hub of the Jensen to replace some wheel studs I needed a combo of gentle head, hydraulic puller and copper hammer + much swearing and cups of tea!

Julian.

lildumper · Post #3 by **lildumper** » Tue May 17, 2011 10:13 am

Thank you very much Julian. I found a picture of a new hub and see what you mean about the taper. It's certainly time to get a puller.
Kind Regards,
Josh

Julian · Post #4 by **Julian** » Tue May 17, 2011 1:14 pm

lildumper wrote:Thank you very much Julian. I found a picture of a new hub and see what you mean about the taper. It's certainly time to get a puller.
Kind Regards,
Josh

Yes, you may have to make one up with a 20ton bottle jack, or do as one chap with a Jensen did - slacken the nut off 1/2 turn and go for a drive until it cracks free! (I'd be careful with this idea because if you allow the taper to wear it'll probably never seat well again :-(

Just a quick question - why do you want to pull it apart?

Julian.

lildumper · Post #5 by **lildumper** » Wed May 18, 2011 10:55 pm

Hi Julian, I just sourced a lovely front axle up in north and won't have to fiddle with the old damaged one any further. Thank goodness. I pulled the diff cover on the replacement axle and its nealy brand new, so a full swap will be easier. The spare dumpers I've found have been a god send and have helped this restoration of mine a huge amount. I've salvaged cables, a near new skip bucket off one, a gear box and a even few pieces of nice sheetmetal. All I need is a steering box...I figure I'll leave it till later and either buy a rebuilt or a new one.
Thanks,
Josh

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