The Classic Machinery Network

Hi Jeremy,

I recently bought my first Hymac and have begun fixing it up.

https://www.maskinisten.net/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=299277

Could you please supply information about the color codes and any tips regarding the primer you used. I would like to get as close as possible to the original color.

/Hans

Hi Hans there is no colour code for the paint that I am aware of as such I asked Tony Flint for the colour that he got matched up by Cromadex who are paint manufactures; The supplier is Cromadex Akzo Nobel 0121 558 5005 paint code: 233BM3437100 Flint Services Yellow, if you are going to spray the paint then ask for it in the 222 Fast Air Drying High Gloss, the paint is also available in aerosols although there is a minimum order. There is a slight variation in the shades that I have seen machines painted over the years so if you are restoring a Hymac and you are unsure my advice would be to contact a local commercial paint manufacturer and ask them to colour match it for you.
Their website is https://www.akzonobel.com/about-us/who- ... d/cromadex
I hope that helps you and good luck with your machine.

Jeremy

Hans; here is a list of the paints that they manufacture; http://www.cromadex.com/products-servic ... eets-msds/ in regards to the primer I would advise the 2100 series grey primer. They are a very helpful company so if you phone them up they will advise the best type of paint to use for your application.

Jeremy

Okay I have been busy at it again today; most of the boom has now been painted, this like the rest of the machine that I have painted so far has entailed using a 4.1/2" angle grinder fitted with flap-discs to grind rust off back to the bare metal. The only part of the boom that's left to paint apart from the back where the steel pipes are is the underneath of the boom.
To paint the underneath of the boom however was not as straight forward as you may think, this is because there was two cracks one either side of the dipper arm pivot fork that required repair before being painted.
The cracks were first ground out with a nice deep recess ground into the boom through each crack; it's no good simply trying to weld over the top of a crack!
Once I had ground a nice recess in each of the two cracks I then used my inverter arc welder to weld repair the cracks; the power was set to maximum and the arc rods were supplied by my fabricator at work who informs me that the boom should not crack again using those arc rods, as I welded the cracks I could see the rods burning deep into the boom fork so I was happy that although my welding leaves a lot to be desired there was good welding penetration.
Finally I ground the welding back off flat and primed then top coated the underneath of the boom; I always go away happy if I feel that I have accomplished something so every little counts as the old saying goes and I keep on 'chipping away' at her.

Jeremy

Lovely reading. You making this machine very fine!

Looking really good Jeremy, it's looking great now, a far cry from when you bought it

bigkit wrote::claphands: Looking really good Jeremy, it's looking great now, a far cry from when you bought it

Thanks Clive she is slowly getting there I am currently tackling the cab seat; the base had rotted and as such was only secured in one place, the frame is broken and seized and the cab floor had rotted away underneath. The current situation is that as Julian Carder is restoring a 580BT for a friend of his while he was having the set base made I asked him to get one knocked up for my machine which he has done for me so I have a newly fabricated seat base to fit, he freed off the seat frame, shot blasted it and got it galvanised for me I will take it into work and get our fabricator to make two new back stays for the rear seat cushion. The lad at work is already making me a plate to cover the cab floor from 5mm plate that will bolt straight into position.
I got a new shaft made up for the one door roller and Julian gave me two new roller bearings that I fitted the last time I was there; also thanks to Norman Orrick who came along to lend me a hand last time.

Jeremy

Okay I have managed to get a bit more done; with the drawing made by Norman to my dimensions the lad at work made a plate for the cab floor. The first thing that needed to be done was to cut what was left of the heads from off the brackets that hold the track levers to the cab floor; this was accomplished using an angle grinder and a cutting disc, easy job, the next part was the messy laborious job which was to grind all the rust and paint off the floor.
Once I got grinding I got a bit carried away and did the a large part of the cab inside which had been bugging me for some time. To be fair I have not made a 100% decision on the cab yet, it may be patched up or removed and replaced with either a newly fabricated one or a good second hand or reconditioned one?
Waiting for paint to dry is a pain but I did apply some heat in the form of a fan heater and the primer dries pretty quickly so I managed to get both coats on at my last visit and will fit the plate shortly; all the holes lined up perfectly so I was pleased about that, I am prepared ready with new zinc plated bolts to secure the new plate into position on my next visit.

Jeremy

Great progress. Step by step you patch it up! How is the weather over there? Here in Sweden it is about 10 degrees below and about 70 cm of snow (about 2,5 feet) Not a perfect climate for a mechanic.

Hi Jeremy.
Is that plate getting welded in as well as bolted?
Norm.