The Classic Machinery Network

991/00122 is the right kit number.

If you're not already sorted by now...it'll likely be the flywheel pilot bearing that's worn out giving rise to the noise.
As said above,Vicary Plant or J Charnley and Sons are likely your best bet for a complete kit.

Yes it is and likewise if you need to remove the liners. Don't forget to disconnect the oil feed pipe from the block to the head before lifting the head off. It's below the exhaust manifold and can be easily forgotten about.

You could also have porous or cracked liners,perished liner o rings,a corroded block where the bottom liner locates or a cracked head. Take the sump off and get a pressure tester on to the radiator and see if you can spot where the water is coming from. Maybe take the rocker cover off too. Can't rem...

I think again it's the camera angle and it's the end of the far side of the loader boom that we see pete. The side door is MK2 and stops short to the slope of the mudguard. The MK3 door shuts tight to the slope and has a white part of the cab adjoined to the top of it. IYKWIM...

Think the fuel filler change came in on the MK 3 which in turn allowed easier access into the cab with the modified door above the steps.

It's a MK2 but the rear boom looks like it's longer and may be from a 3D. The dipper looks different too but it's not the right shape or length of a D although it's heavier built than a standard C. Perhaps it's just the camera angle playing tricks?

Could be. There's also a gasket between the pressure maintenance valve and transmission housing that may be leaking past on the forward circuit. The PM valve is what the f/r solenoids are bolted onto. If you go into the downloads section of the forum,you'll find a workshop manual that covers your tr...

Yes you could bypass the cooler temporarily. The clutch pack housing or basket is a double sided component with a set of friction and steel intermediate discs on each side of it. A set for forward and a set for reverse...

Use a multimeter(a test bulb of at least 21w would be better) to check if there's power at the solenoids when the f/r lever is activated both ways. Just to make sure they are both actually getting power to start with. There are relays behind the dash (left hand side iirc)that you should hear click w...