The Classic Machinery Network

Smaller gauge suggest either signal wire or low current device. Have you tried to trace it back to anything in the cab? Not easy I know, but seeing if there's anything behind the instrument cluster with a similar coloured wire might help

Welcome Barry, I can feel your pain with what I have had to 'fixed on my older machine! I'm going to sound like a broken record here, but have you consulted the wiring diagrams in the manuals you have downloaded? I've only got the one for the black cab to hand, and looking at the ones in that I coul...

Have you had a look at the Service Manual from the downloads section?

If you can't get a second set of eye's to help out you could always use your Camera Phone or a Go-Pro (other small video recorders are available ;) ), and some tape to strap it in place, to be your 'eyes' on what's going on while you operate the controls well away from anything likely to cause an in...

Have you tried measuring up the conical seat, the thread and the number of splines? A lot of the running gear on British made dumpers of the period borrow parts from other British vehicles, 19 inch three stud pattern wheels for example come from Morris 8's, while the 5 stud 16 inch wheels are a Morr...

MrF wrote:Now I have to go back to work in the week, so not much will happen for a while probably. But it pays for the toys to fix the toys.

Amen to that!

Ooofff

Funnily enough I've just taken the grill off mine to bash straight ish and repair...and in doing so found some crispy fried wiring in the process to investigate

Ahh, could it be the reverse/rear horn? I noticed on a wiring diagram that there were meant to be horns mounted front and rear on some models

Lots of progress.

Really want to get my Lathe back and then working...

Also reminds me I still need to set the pump up on the T25, using the cold start enrichment to keep it idling is a bit of a bodge...

Good stuff!